Article & Photography by ALICE ARMITAGE

The Riverina has long been defined by its agrarian output, but the Coolamon Cheese Co has given those traditions new life through hospitality. Always an initiative entrenched in community spirit — a combination of crowdfunding, grants, and selling shares to locals is how Coolamon Cheese Co got off the ground — but a recent injection of fresh energy has brought even more to the table.

When Sarah Boyle first walked through the door, she expected only to lend a hand with social media. Instead, she became the custodian of the institution, and in doing so, helped restore a cornerstone of Coolamon’s identity.

The café had lost its connection to locals — cash wasn’t accepted, space was divided, and tourists left without understanding the heart of the place. Sarah saw what was missing: warmth, continuity, and family. With her mother and sister as major supporting acts, and her own all-in personality steering the ship, Coolamon Cheese regained its role as both local meeting point and visitor magnet.

Patrons can once again linger to sample platters, and the cheesery hums with an authenticity that no amount of branding could fake.

For visitors, it’s a taste of the Riverina’s openness: a chance to see local families pouring themselves into their businesses and to sit at the table as if they’ve always belonged there. For locals, it’s a reassurance that their stories and traditions matter as much as any tourism campaign.

“I don’t do anything half-arsed,” Sarah says. “I’ve fallen in love with this place, and I think people feel that when they walk in. The Riverina is special because of its people. Locals who keep the doors open during the week and visitors who feel like part of the family on weekends.”

— Sarah Boyle